hi Jeff,
To learn HTML these sites are among the best on the web:
w3schools
Tizag
You may also find this site of use...
HTML Goodies ...but it seems to be a bit behind the times.
If you want to write the html/css from scratch you could use Notepad, but far better are either of these two programs:
HTML-Kit
Notepad++
My preference is for HTML-kit, but many developers use Notepad++
As for wysiwyg editors, I don't use them because the code they produce can be a bit clunky and slow. It can also be a devil of a job finding errors in code which has been generated by a wysiwyg editor.
Don't learn what you do not need to. Many books will take you through every html tag and attribute under the sun, then you discover that by using CSS you needn't have learnt half of them.
So try to learn the use of CSS right from the start, your code will be smaller, easier to modify and be a lot tidier.
All the best - Duncan